April 5, 2002
Dear Family and Friends,
My last chronicle ended as Carole and I arrived in Laos. I can only imagine your anxiety waiting to receive the next instalment, so here it is. Laos has the smallest population of any country in Indo China (5.4 million), and only Cambodia is smaller in area than Laos; but Laos manages to border on Myanmar, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. The Mekong River called the Nam Khong here, and so important everywhere in Indo China, runs the full length of the country. All those countries just mentioned have been involved in the rule of Laos over the past millennium. A good portion of the Ho Chi Minh trail, leading from North to South Vietnam, was in Eastern Laos, so Laos became a major target for American bombers during the Vietnam/American War. Laos has the unhappy distinction of being the most bombed country in the history of the world. Only in 1975, shortly after the fall of Saigon, did the Pathet Lao secure Vientienne and create the Lao People's Democratic Republic, a regime closely connected with Vietnam.
Carole and I flew in to Vientienne, the capital, for a short visit of this landlocked country. Vientienne is certainly the smallest national capital I have ever been in, and after the frenzy of all the other cities I have visited, flying in to Vientienne is like arriving in Powell River and stepping into a time warp. I don't know how many people live there, but it can't be much more than 100,000. From the first moment at the airport, we knew we were dealing with different people than previously. There was no rush of taxi drivers trying to get us to go with them, rather a couple of them just let us know they were there, should we ever decide to go downtown. No pressure, no bargaining. Traffic is very light and it is easy to walk around the whole downtown, which borders along the Mekong River.
Buddhism is widely practiced in Laos and The Pathet Lao is apparently making considerable effort to explain that Buddhism and communism are not incompatible. There are many notable Wats (Buddhist temples) in Vientienne, and Carole and I took time to visit the major ones. Wat Si Saket, built in the early 1800's, is notable for having more than 2,000 Buddha images in small niches in the interior walls. We also visited the 500 year old royal temple, Haw Pha Kaew, meaning 'jewel Buddha image'. It was originally built to house the Emerald Buddha (actually jade) which is now so reverently housed and displayed by the Thai in the Grand Palace in Bangkok.
There is a good range of restaurants in Vientienne including the 'Healthy and Fresh Bakery', an eatery which was recommended to us by Kara (who had eaten there when she visited in 2000), and by the Canadian Maple Leaf on the sign. This establishment (and another in Luang Prabang) is owned and operated by a young couple from Cranbrook, and I can add my recommendation, fresh baked buns and sweets just like home.
Lao Air is infamous with travellers and reportedly has one of the worst accident records amongst all air carriers the world over. It is said Lao Air has had so many accidents, and was getting such bad press over them, they simply stopped reporting them. Armed with that knowledge, two short days after we arrived in Vientienne, Carole and I boarded a Lao Air flight and flew to Luang Prabang, the second largest city in Laos. The flight was fine until just before landing when we went through a sizeable storm. The plane pitched and jumped, and tilted and bounced. The pilot had it on full throttle, powering down through the clouds. It was a bit unsettling to me, but not nearly so much as a Lao woman sitting in the seat across from us. She shook, rocked, and sobbed. She reached out and got a death grip on the shirt of a Brit traveller sitting in the seat in front of her. She pulled so hard on his shirt she almost strangled the poor guy. He saved himself only by lifting himself in his seat to ease the strangle hold. After we landed Carole told me that the distraction of the scene across the aisle was all that saved me from being similarly choked.
Although much smaller than Vientienne, Luang Prabang has even more temples, and a number of old French mansions. It was recently identified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the hopes of preserving its historic architecture. But the one word description for Luang Prabang is 'sleepy', not in any derogatory sense, but talk about laid back! The city is full of tourists, both tour groups and independent travellers, wandering up and down the main street or sitting in the dozens of sidewalk cafes, just chilling out. Like Vientienne, it sits on the Mekong River, but it has a scenic mountain backdrop.
We had three lazy days there checking out the temples, the market, the craft shops, and the restaurants. One day I rented a bike to peddle around the city while Carole took a taxi with another traveller to visit a nearby falls. While in Luang Prabang, I tried to make flight arrangements for my upcoming Thailand travel. I had a very frustrating time with a local travel agent, and did, only momentarily mind you, lose my good nature. If your name is Isert, you should avoid going to the Lao American Travel Agency in Luang Prabang. I can't guarantee the owner won't have some unresolved anger. After leaving Lao American, I made my flight arrangements on the Internet in ten easy minutes.
On Tuesday, March 26th, Carole and I say goodbye to Luang Prabang, and to each other. We have been travelling together since February 19th and now it is time for Carole to head home and take up her responsibilities at the Shannaleigh Bed and Breakfast. Carole has been great to travel with; we have some differing points of view, but very similar travel styles. She has been absolutely true to her word in her e-mail of last December when she told me she was coming and said "I am very low maintenance, a great traveller, and I promise to not burden you in any way." You are, you are, and you didn't Carole. I would travel with you anytime.
So, Carole flew off to Bangkok and I flew to Huey Si, a small city on the Laos/Thailand border where I was stamped out of Laos, crossed the Mekong River in a small boat to Chiang Khong, and was stamped back in to Thailand. Within minutes I was on a bus heading for Chiang Rai which is right in the infamous opium poppy area, the Golden Triangle. Although there is little else to recommend Chiang Rai, tourists are now flocking here to have their picture taken under a sign to that effect. I forego that wonderful opportunity and head directly on to Chiang Mai and check in to the Galare Guest House, another of John McClurg's recommendations. Arrival back in Thailand is deja vu all over again. Everything is so organized, roads are so great, and it is so easy to travel. Dare I say it; it is much like being at home.
I spent a couple of days in Chiang Mai which is exactly like Bangkok except it is much smaller, has no high rise buildings, has easier traffic, no sky train, many more temples, a moat around the old city, lots of Hill people in native dress peddling stuff on the streets, and a less hectic pace. Otherwise, as I say, it is exactly the same. Actually, it really does seem similar, and I spent my time wandering the city, the market, and the Night Market that is, in fact, much like Suhkumvit Road in Bangkok.
The day after I arrived, to my great consternation, I couldn't find my Visa card. I looked through everything, and when I couldn't find it, I called CIBC to report my card lost. They in turn transferred me to Visa International to arrange a replacement card. It took about 20 minutes to give them all the necessary details. Immediately after I hung up, my card fell out of my passport. I called CIBC back but of course it was too late, and I have to live without my credit card until I get back in Bangkok on April 4th.
One other thing about my credit card. I am one of those people who do not sign the back of my credit card, believing you are better off without your signature on the back. (Should you lose your card the person finding it only has your name, not your signature too.) I always print "See Photo I.D." on the back instead. Much to my children and Lorraine's annoyance over the years, I have had many discussions about this with cashiers. Well, in Thailand it has sometimes been an issue too. When cashiers note the variance between the back of my card and the signature I write on the receipt, I dutifully print "See photo I.D." and everyone is happy.
From Chiang Mai I flew to Krabi, a developing beach area in the south of Thailand, close to Phuket, and made famous by the movie "The Beach". I had settled on this area, specifically Ao Nang Beach, based on the recommendations of a couple of fellow travellers I met. It is quite pretty, with islands reminiscent of those at Ha Long Bay in Vietnam. But the beach wasn't great, the prices a bit steep, the town totally overrun with tourists (many family groups, as it is spring break everywhere), and nothing of interest to me in the shops.
So, I checked out and headed by bus to Koh Samui. Bus travel has generally been very comfortable in Thailand, but not particularly notable. But this was a bit more interesting. It is March 31st and very hot now in Thailand, the temperature is up around 40 degrees. On the trip they had a video playing. It featured an all-Thai girl rock group, skimpily dressed, doing a medley of Christmas songs. For about 15 minutes we were treated to these girls singing and go go dancing to "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" and "Jingle Bells". Only in Thailand.
So the last three days of my time in Thailand has been spent lying on the beach, or around the pool, at Mae Nam Beach on Samui. I am so glad I made the change. Although Samui has become a major tourist destination, it deserves to be. The island is lushly tropical, the beaches are beautiful, and the water gloriously aquamarine blue. I rented a Honda Dream for two days and rode all over the island. A great tourist attraction is the new Koh Samui Airport. It is owned by Bangkok Air (hence, only Bangkok Air flies here) and is surely the greatest airport anywhere. The runway is lined with palm trees; the 'terminal' consists of several open, thatched-roof buildings. My Brother and Sister-in-law, Greg and Diane, visited Koh Samui in 1979. He e-mailed me, a bit shocked as he can't remember phones or electricity when they were here. And he is certain there was no e-mail.
Two days ago I returned to Bangkok and today I leave for Hong Kong to meet Kara. It is time to go. Bangkok is very hot, but, on the other hand, most of the tourists are gone and one can easily walk along Suhkumvit Road now. I know it is time to go as I have almost totally stopped taking pictures. Although I am sure there are lots of sights I will wish I had captured on film, it all looks normal to me. Bougainvillaeas are in full bloom, Temples are everywhere, and life here really isn't like home, but I just walk by, camera in my bag.
So that's it for now. Congratulations on your well-deserved retirement Bevvie. I really look forward to boring you with my pictures on Savary this summer/fall. To all of you, keep well.
Merv.
