April 5, 2002
Dear Family and Friends,
My last chronicle ended as Carole and I arrived in Laos. I can only imagine your anxiety waiting to receive the next instalment, so here it is. Laos has the smallest population of any country in Indo China (5.4 million), and only Cambodia is smaller in area than Laos; but Laos manages to border on Myanmar, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. The Mekong River called the Nam Khong here, and so important everywhere in Indo China, runs the full length of the country. All those countries just mentioned have been involved in the rule of Laos over the past millennium. A good portion of the Ho Chi Minh trail, leading from North to South Vietnam, was in Eastern Laos, so Laos became a major target for American bombers during the Vietnam/American War. Laos has the unhappy distinction of being the most bombed country in the history of the world. Only in 1975, shortly after the fall of Saigon, did the Pathet Lao secure Vientienne and create the Lao People's Democratic Republic, a regime closely connected with Vietnam.
Carole and I flew in to Vientienne, the capital, for a short visit of this landlocked country. Vientienne is certainly the smallest national capital I have ever been in, and after the frenzy of all the other cities I have visited, flying in to Vientienne is like arriving in Powell River and stepping into a time warp. I don't know how many people live there, but it can't be much more than 100,000. From the first moment at the airport, we knew we were dealing with different people than previously. There was no rush of taxi drivers trying to get us to go with them, rather a couple of them just let us know they were there, should we ever decide to go downtown. No pressure, no bargaining. Traffic is very light and it is easy to walk around the whole downtown, which borders along the Mekong River.
